The above quote was from a journalist we met with in Dura. He was the first person we came in contact with who saw and named parallels between the occupation and the Holocaust. In many ways the quote encapsulates much of my experience. It was a very different experience of what reality is for people in different parts of the world, especially ones that proclaim to be democratic (although it should be noted that Israel has no constitution). I had a conversation with a good friend on the phone the other day, and as I started to relay some of what I saw, heard, and experienced, all he could say was “that’s unbelievable”. I couldn’t agree more, for this is how I felt a lot of the time, but the reality of the people sharing there experiences and then my seeing the truth with my own eyes would not let me escape the fact: the occupation is very real and transcending any concept I’ve ever had of reality. How is it that a 25 foot wall brings Israeli’s “security” when it cuts directly through the middle of Palestinian towns. Now as a result of this “security” wall people have to walk for miles to get to a “security” check point so that they can get to the home that used to be right across the street from there house. We heard a story of one person who used to make a meal for an aging person and take it to her everynight across the street, because she had no one else to take care of her. Now, as a result of the wall, this person has to walk around 45 minutes to take the food, and it is now cold by the time it reaches its destination.
How this is bringing “security” is puzzling, especially when looking at a map one sees that the wall is built not in a direct line as one would expect, but a zig-zag course that encloses all the major water sources into Israeli land. On top of that we learned that it is completely illegal for any Palestinian to have a water catch of any sort, enforced by the Israeli military. The reason is that Palestinians are required to purchase water from Israel, which, coincidentally, is gathered on all the Palestinians’ land. So, the wall is creating “security” by taking all the water from the stolen Palestinian land and then being sold back to the Palestinians…
…it was things like this that ring true with the journalist’s quote. Although there was a definite negative edge to the majority of what he had to share, if I had to live in an occupied country since 1948 (60 years) I think I might empathize a little.
That said, below is what we awoke to at Atta’s home long before meeting our new journalist friend.

Above, Atta’s house is the larger one lit up in the foreground to the left, and the settlement can be seen sprawled out across the distant ridge.

Above, children walked through the thawing hills to school.

Atta’s family has a lot of produce and garden area, and the landscapers out there would be interested to know that there seemed to be a very nice watering system installed that was not only working but nourishing the flowers and food very sufficiently.

Above, we passed some local boys on the way to our van.

One of our stops was a kindergarten program run by Zleekha, who prepared our welcome meal at the Hebron CPT apartment. She has an apartment in the same complex. She is very passionate about creating a space where Palestinians parents feel safe bringing their children to play and learn, as the spaces are becoming fewer and fewer. She is very determined and not easily moved. She stood up to some Israeli military who would not let us walk 200 feet down a road to some stores where we wanted to purchase some local goods. They did not let us go through in the end, but she did take us to a secret way of sorts through someone’s house which brought us around the other side of the road. That was very exciting, especially realizing that an 8 year old boy was the one watching over the house we passed through. I don’t think many Americans would consider letting a child of this age hold such responsibility, but here it was more than common place.

While we met with her we noted that the children were very quite, and later found out that they were waiting for us to finish talking with her (and being very good at that!), so she cut them loose after the meeting and the transformation from the above image to those below explain the bottled energy these kids were storing.



Above, they sang us a song they had learned, and we sang songs for them, too. Below we took a photo with them. The photo credit goes to Melanie Southworth, who wanted me to be in at least one photo - thanks Mel!

We then proceeded with Zleekha to the checkpoint where we were denied passage, so we went up to the Mosque instead. Below is one of the outer areas where she was at for prayers when the shooting I talked about where 29 Palestinians were killed occurred.

Before entering the main area the women had to put on these robes so that they would be “suitable”.




The above two images are detail shots of the below photo. I don’t remember what exactly this is from as I was running around taking pictures like mad because the gaurds told us we had 5 MINUTES! until prayer, so I was doing what I could. As a result I missed exactly what this is, but I remember it being one of two things that have been around since either the temple was originally destroyed, or something of similar significance. The detail in the piece is amazing!

We then visited a soup kitchen that has been active for around 400 years. It was quite amazing to see these people so dedicated and carrying on such a long tradition of helping the poor and hungry.

The below man in particular loved having his picture taken, so the other workers told me in English, so I snapped off quite a few shots for both of our enjoyment. Those are some HUGE soup bowls!


After making our way through the “secret” passage to the street of shops we weren’t allowed to visit earlier, we found mugs that our leader, Sally, had had prepared for us with our names painted on. Above is one of the workers at the shop where they were made.


Ah, kids. I can’t remember where I was for the above shot that day, but the following image was of a kid who jumped on our van when we were lost in Dura trying to find the journalist’s home. He held onto the open area while the sliding-door was left open, and many seat belts were thrust on in haste due to the driver’s choice to not slow down despite the child hanging on and the open door with no arm rests to catch folks. It was quite a ride!

And below is the journalist, Khaled, who graciously had us into his home and offered us tea and good insight from his perspective as a journalist.

That concluded the day, after which we returned to Hebron for the night. At this point I was beginning to get a feeling that the situation might be a little bit more complex than I had expected, as well dealing with physical fatigue. Well, more to come later…and I’ll be looking forward to seeing folks in Oregon when I get in this coming weekend!
Tags: Arab, Christian, Christian Peacemaker Teams, Conflict, CPT, Dura, Hebron, IMF, Israel, Journalist, Military, Mosque, Mugs, Muslim, Occupation, Palestine, Peace, Peacemaker, Police, Pottery, West Bank